This article guides to the beginners of photography. It is a brief, a one-stop shop to help you take your camera off auto, and take control of your DSLR. It isn’t replaceable, so it is not necessary to explain every setting in detail, but will cover enough of the basics to know how to control camera and give you the key topics to go back to your manual to read. We have already posted the top 5 best dslr camera under 30000 in india.
How to Get Started with your First DSLR Camera?
Here are some points to learn using DSLR:
- Master Shooting modes (including priority modes and full manual)
- Understand ISO
- Learn the ‘exposure triangle’
- Master Metering including exposure compensation
- Learn About Focusing
- Understand file size/types
- Learn about White balance
#1 Master Shooting modes
To start the using the best place can be a shooting modes. The shooting modes will be available on a labelled dial with auto and maybe more. The other modes are there to give you control, taking your camera off auto opening priority and shut priority modes gives two very simple ways to start to understand how the various setting impact your images and are a best starting place for learning how to use your camera more creatively.
#2 Understand ISO
ISO settings is a measure of how sensitive the sensor of your camera is to light.
At low sensitivities, more light is required to get a given exposure compared to high sensitivities where less light is required to achieve the same exposure.
#3 Learn the ‘Exposure Triangle’
It’s important to note that opening, shutter speed and ISO are all part of the ‘exposure triangle’. They control all may it be the amount of light entering the camera (opening, shutter speed) or the amount of light required by the camera (ISO) for a given exposure.
Therefore, they are all linked, and understanding the relationship between them is crucial to being able to take control of your camera. A change in one of the settings will impact the other two. For example, considering a theoretical exposure of ISO 400, f/8.0, 1/10th second.
They all have the overall effect of lessen the amount of light by a factor of 4, countering the change in aperture. It’s just a case of understanding that they are all linked, and so changing one setting, will cause a change in another.
#4 Master Metering
Any exposure calculation should be used during this time,(e.g. aperture priority mode, shutter priority mode, auto-ISO etc) the camera always tries to calculate an ‘average’ exposure. It will judge the whole scene, both light and dark areas, and determine the exposure so that all of the tones within the entire image average to 18% grey – called the ‘middle’ grey.
It is called as metering, and it is the reason that if you point your camera at a bright white scene, such as after it has snowed, and take a photo the final image will always appear darker than we see it. Although, if the camera at a daek area, such as a low-lit room, and take a photograph the resulting image will always be brighter than you or I see it.
The scenario is always being averaged by the camera and most of the time that results in the image appearing to be correctly exposed. Although, you can control what areas of the scene are being assessed by the camera in order to influence the way in which the exposure is metered.
The three metering modes are:
Average – The camera will assess the tones across the entire image form corner to corner, and expose the scene to 18% grey from that assessment.
Weighted centrally- The camera weights the exposure reading for the area in the centre of the view finder that can total up to approximately 80% of the scene, ignoring the extreme corners of the image.
Spot metering – The camera will use a very small area of the scene, typically a small circle in the centre of the viewfinder that totals approximately 5% of the viewfinder area. It will make the judgement of dark/light tones in this area and expose the entire scene to 18% grey, from that assessment are making the most of the megapixels that you have just invested in.
A raw file is big, and so contains a lot of image data that allows for a lot of flexibility during post-processes, but also comes with additional complications such as the need to process every file using devoted editing software and a larger file size. A jpeg is a compressed file type, that is automatically processed by the DSLR camera. They will be ready to print straight out of the camera, and are much smaller files, meaning you can fit more images per memory card.